Smörgåsbord
It literally means ‘buttered table’ – indeed, the Swedish word for sandwich is smörgås. An array of small dishes, both warm and cold, a traditional smörgåsbord starts with fish, moving on to cold meats, and then warm dishes.
Cheeses come at the end. In Sweden, the smörgåsbord is always laid out in advance; in Denmark (where it’s called det kolde bord, or ‘the cold table’), dishes are sent to the table throughout the meal. A traditional lunch can take hours, and aquavit is enjoyed at regular intervals, of course.
Popular dishes for a smörgåsbord include bowls ofpickled herringserved withryeandcrispbread,beetrootand apple salad, meatballs,pâtés, and different types ofcuredandsmoked salmon.
Fish
You probably already know that our most popular fish is herring. We eat it pickled, but also smoke and fry it. Scandinavian varieties of pickled herring are less sharp than what you’ll find elsewhere in Europe, as the brine is sweeter.
Any kind ofcuredorsmoked salmonis also loved. Gravadlax (dill-cured salmon) is probably the most famous of these. Smoked mackerel is also served, as are less commonly known fish such as Arctic charr.
Sweden celebrates thecrayfishin August, with outdoor parties where we eat bowls of them washed down withaquavit.
Meat
Pork is an important meat in southern Scandinavia.Flæskestegpork roast, eaten with a heavy gravy and caramelised potatoes, is as Danish as roast beef is British – and is also the quintissential Danish Christmas lunch. Further north, game such as reindeer and elk is served – and it’s not difficult to find bear sausage in some places. Northern Norwegians eat a lot ofsmoked, dried lamb.
Of course, we can’t discuss meat without mentioning meatballs. There must be tens of thousands of different recipes – actually, that’s probably a vast underestimation.
In Sweden, a mixture of pork and beef is usually prepared, whereas Danes prefer pork and veal. In Norway, there’s more regional variation, but beef is popular. In Sweden, meatballs are small – and in Norway, they’re big. If you’re going to learn how to make meatballs, you’ll need to find a good, basic recipe and then put your own spin on it.
Across Scandinavia, meatballs are usually served with potatoes, either boiled or mashed. If you’re looking for a Swedish or Norwegian twist, add a dollop oflingonberry jam. But all leftover meatballs are great in sandwiches.
Sweetness
Scandinavian baking is getting a lot of attention in the UK right now, and you’re probably aware that cinnamon is an important factor in our cakes and buns. Cardamom is just as popular as well.
Kanelbullar – cinnamon buns – are massive in Sweden (and, of course, the dough sometimes has notes of cardamom). A cinnamon bun can be eating morning, noon and night – usually with coffee.
In Denmark, Danish pastries are the thing, you might be surprised to learn. But they’re called wienerbrød there – ‘Vienna bread’. If you’ve never eaten a Danish Danish pastry, then go to a bakery there on a Sunday morning and buy a smørsnegl. It’s a taste like no other.
Other favourites include kladdkaka, a sticky Swedish chocolate cake, and anything packed with fruit and berries.
Bread
While we have the same word for bread as you do (brød in Denmark and Norway, bröd in Sweden), our loaves are quite different. We love rich, dark rye in any shape or form. Rye bread, rye buns, and rye grain thrown into many different dishes.
Crispbread is delicious and healthy – and not the same as what you buy in the supermarket here in the UK.Check out the vast variety that we sell in the shop.
Bread can also be a sweet treat – try vörtbröd, limpa or franskbrød.
The scary stuff
Yes, we admit it. Some of those horror stories you’ve heard about Nordic food are quite true. And if you want to give them a go, we can help.
Surströmmingis Swedish fermented herring, popular in the far north where crayfish aren’t as plentiful in the summer. It actually tastes amazing, but smells really bad. We advise you to open the tin outside.
Lutfiskis cod preserved in lye, and eaten in Norway at Christmas. To British eyes it looks a bit like tripe. It’s on sale during the festive season.
Hákarl is Icelandic fermented shark, buried for weeks and hung for months. It’s the very definition of ‘an acquired taste’, and not on sale in the UK. Sadly or happily, that’s for you to decide!
The Scandinavian Pantry
‘What can I use instead of…’ is probably the most common question I’m asked when it comes to Scandinavian recipes. ‘What is this spice called in English’ is the second (I’m also asked to translate from English to Scandinavian languages for plenty of homesick Scandis, too). Sometimes the answers are not that simple, so here are some of the most common ingredients we use for Yuletide cooking, along with their names in Danish, Swedish and Norwegian.
Anything we need to add here? Let us know!
SPICES & HERBS
Caraway
Kommen (D), Kummin (S), Karve (N), Kumina (F)
In Denmark and Sweden, the word for caraway sounds similar to cumin, so it is often translated incorrectly in recipes (cumin itself is spidskommen or spiskummin). We use caraway seeds a lot in breads, as well as cheeses.
Cardamom
Kardemomme (D, N), Kardemumma (S, F)
It’s said that the Vikings first brought this spice back from Constantinople (now known as Istanbul), but there is little to support this idea. However, around 1300, a Danish monk used cardamom in a cookbook influenced by Moorish recipes (Libellus de arte coquinaria), which is the earliest evidence we have for the spice’s appearance in Scandinavian cooking. Today, we use cardamom a lot, including in the dough for our renowned cinnamon buns. I always buy the little seeds and crush them in a spice grinder for maximum flavour – it beats the pre-ground variety hands down, and really lifts the flavour of the buns.
Cinnamon
Kanel (D, S, N), Kaneli (F)
Some cheaper varieties of cinnamon are made from cassia bark, which contains high levels of coumarin (not good for you in high doses). If you can, go for high-grade Ceylon cinnamon instead, which has lower levels of coumarin and a better flavour.
Cloves
Nellike (D), Nejlika (S), Nellik (N), Neilikka (F)
Cloves are used whole in aquavit and mulled wine, and sometimes on Swedish Christmas ham. Crushed cloves are common in biscuits and cookies. In Denmark at Christmas-time, windows are often decorated with fresh oranges studded with whole cloves – a great way to bring a wonderfully festive scent into your house! The word krydd (spice) sometimes prefixes the word for clove in all three languages.
Dill
Dild (D), Dill (S, N), Tilli (F)
We use dill a lot to give a lift to salads, fish or chicken. Crown dill (where the herb has been allowed to flower) is used for its strong flavour at crayfish parties. That variety is quite hard to get hold of outside Sweden, but you can always grow your own or use fresh dill instead.
Fennel seed
Fennikelfrø (D, N), Fänkålsfrö (S), Fenkoli (F)
We use fennel seed mainly in bread, bothfor loaves and as a flavouring for crispbread.
Ginger
Ingefær (D, N), Ingefära (S), Inkivääri (F)
Ground ginger is commonly used in biscuits,cookies and cakes. Whole dried ginger isessential in mulled wine, but fresh ginger isactually not that common in Scandinavia.
BERRIES
Cloudberry
Multebær (D), Hjortron (S), Multe (N), Lakka (F)
These orange berries, which look a bit like plump raspberries except for the colour, are found in the wild and are almost impossible to cultivate artificially. They can’t be picked by machine, only by hand, and even that is tricky as the berries burst easily. Cloudberry season is around three weeks long, so that only adds to the cost and scarcity of the fruit. Frozen cloudberries are much easier to get hold of than fresh, but they are still expensive. Most Scandinavian shops stock cloudberry jam/preserves, which can be substituted for fresh berries in almost every recipe. In North America, cloudberries are often referred to as ‘bakeapples’. The cloudberry is very tart and pairs very well with apples, strong cheeses and vanilla (the jam is particularly wonderful heated up and poured over vanilla ice cream). To replace this flavourin recipes is hard, and a tart raspberry is the closest ingredient in taste.
Saffron
Safran (D, N), Saffran (S), Sahrami (F)
Like cardamom, the origins of saffron’sarrival into Scandinavia are unclear. Some sayit came via ancient Asian trading routes, whileothers think it was brought northwards fromFrance and Italy. Regardless, saffron inScandinavia has always been used for specialoccasions only, most likely because of its highvalue (if you’re shopping for it in Scandinavia,it’s probably kept behind the shop counter ortill). However, it is an essential ingredient atChristmas time for Lucia buns. We commonlyuse ground saffron, but if you are using strands,grind them well first. To intensify the colour, soakthe strands in warm water before using.
Lingonberry
Tyttebær (D, N), Lingon (S), Puolukka (F)
Northern Scandinavians have lingonberries in their freezers throughout the year, while fresh ones are picked in August. The berry is small, red and tart, and found in abundance in Sweden, Norway and Finland. From the same family as the cranberry, the tartness of a lingonberry lends itself well to being served with meat (it is most famously served with meatballs). Lingonberries can also be used in cookies and cakes – pair them with something quite sweet, as they are really quite sharp in flavour. If you can’t get hold of lingonberries, substitute with raspberries for sweet recipes, or cranberries for savoury dishes.
Salt
Salt (D, S, N), Suola (F)
Scandinavians have been preserving food in saltfor centuries, so it’s not surprising that we havea love for using it in anything from well-seasonedsavoury dishes to sprinkling it on biscuits orcakes. Not all salt is equal, but if you ever spota brand called North Sea Salt Works, buy it.
Sea buckthorn
Havtorn (D, S), Tindved (N), Tyrni (F)
Sea buckthorn grows wild across Scandinavia, parts of the UK, parts of Canada and as far east as China. It is quite unpleasant to eat raw, and some people find the smell of the fresh juice offensive! However, when sugar is added, the flavour complexities change. It is brilliant in jam and desserts. It’s also good for you, being rich in vitamin C and carotenoids.
Seville orange peel
Pomeransskal (D, S), Pomeransskall (N), Pomeranssinkuori (F)
We use this in mulled wine and also insome Christmas breads and biscuits. You cansubstitute with normal dried bitter orange peel,but the flavour will not be as subtle.
Strawberries
Jordbær (D, N), Jordgubb (S), Mansikat (F)
We have two varieties of strawberries: the normal ones from the garden, available in all shops – and then the little wild strawberries. The latter can be found in Norwegian and Swedish forests towards the end of July. Wild strawberries are very sweet, small berries (often less than 1 cm/1/4 inch long). If you have ever tasted wild strawberries yourself, you will know that they are utterly delicious.
Vanilla
Vanille (D), Vanilj (S), Vanilje (N), Vanilja (F)
Most Scandinavian cookbooks use vanillasugar in recipes, which is a quick and easysubstitute for whole vanilla pods/beans. You canbuy this in Scandinavian food shops, or makeyour own by grinding 275 g/2 cups icing/confectioners’ sugar with 2 dried vanilla pods/beans in a food processor or spice grinder untilpulverized. Sift to remove the woody bits anduse as needed. You can normally just substitutewith vanilla extract or vanilla pods/beans too.If you are buying, Tørsleffs is a great brand.
Blueberries
Blåbær (D, N), Blåbär (S), Mustikat (F)
The type of blueberries you buy in the shopare called blueberries, of course. The type ofblueberries you find in the wild all over northernScandinavia we also call ‘blåbär/blåbær’, but in English,these are actually known as bilberries. Wildblueberries or bilberries have a delicious sweetflavour and are a lot smaller. If you can get themthen go for them – they are a deep blue coloureven inside. Bilberries can be bought frozen fromspeciality shops or online.
Liquorice
Lakrids (D), Lakrits (S). Lakris (N), Lakritsi (F)
The Finns became hooked on the flavour ofliquorice, used in a lot of cough medicine,at the turn of the 19th century. Someone had thebright idea to add the flavour to sweets, and fromthen ammonium chloride began to be added ingreater quantities (this is the salty flavour alsoknown as ‘salmiakki’). The salty flavour inScandinavian liquorice is now so strong that mostnon-Scandinavians can’t eat it. Although, if youbecome hooked on the acquired taste, you willneed the stronger stuff . Use as a syrup or powderin cakes, meringues or ice creams.
Elderberries (elderflower)
Hyldebær/blomst(D), Fläder(S), Hyllebær/blomst(N), Mustaseljat (F)
In Scandinavia, elderflower is used mostly in jams/ jellies, cordials and cakes. The Elderberry is also used a lot in Denmark to make elderberry cordial –a strong-tasting drink which is full of vitamins.
VEGETABLES
Beetroot (beet)
Rødbeder (D), rödbetor (S), Rødbeter (N), Punajuuri (F)
Used pickled, cooked and raw, this vegetableis a real staple of Scandinavian food, in everythingfrom salads to dips or hot dishes. If you use astore-bought beetroot/beet pickle, do check if it’sfilled with sweeteners. Eastern European andScandinavian versions tend not to be andtherefore give a better result, in my opinion.
Nettles
Brændnælder (D), Nässel (S), Nesle/Brennenesle (N), Nokkonen (F)
Fresh nettles have an earthy taste similar tospinach, but with a coarser texture and strongerafter-taste. Make sure you wear gloves for foragingand pick only the new top leaves in spring time –nettles in late summer tend to be harsh andtough. Boiling them in water for 2 minutes beforeusing them will kill the stings. Dried nettles area good, easy option and can be bought online andadded to salads or crackers or used as a generalflavouring like dried herbs.
Wild mushrooms
Svamp (D, S), Sopp (N), Sienet (F)
The autumn/fall is usually the time for foragingfor fresh mushrooms – and we like to use freshwhenever we can. During other seasons we use alot of dried mushrooms, most often the Swedish‘Kantareller’ (chanterelles) or ‘Karl Johan’ (Steinsopp – Norwegian) (porcini).
DRINKS
Aquavit
Aquavit (D), Akvavit (S), Akevitt (N), Akvaviitti (F)
A grain-based alcoholic drink, flavoured with herbsand spices. Most people often enjoy as part of asmörgåsbord or with pickled herring or crayfish.See my recipes for easy versions of dill andfennel-flavoured aquavit on page (171).
FLOURS & GRAINS
Crispbread
Knækbrød (D), Knäckebröd (S), Knekkebrød (N), Näkkäri (F)
Not a flour or grain, but such an importantpart of our store-cupboard that it needs to bementioned, as they are on the dining table formost meals, especially breakfast. A goodhomemade crispbread is made with rye, water,yeast and a little salt. You can use my recipe onpage 143 or buy them from Scandinavian foodshops. It takes a lot of drying in a warm oven toget the homemade ones nearly as crisp as thestore-bought ones, as the professional bakers usereally hot ovens heated to 400C (750F).
Light rye flour, type 997
This is a sifted rye from Germany – not as whiteas white rye, which has been sifted twice. I lovebaking with this flour, but it is usually onlyavailable online (in the UK, try Shipton Mills).
Malt
Malt (D, S, N), Mallas (F)
You can buy barley malt protein powder or syruponline. We also sometimes use a low-alcohol maltbeer in rye bread dough. If you cannot get malt,use normal dark syrup for rye bread instead.
Oats
Havre (D, S, N), Kaura (F)
Used in porridge, granola, muesli and baking.We also eat raw oats with milk for breakfast.Oat flakes (jumbo oats) or cut oats are favoured,and we don’t really use oatmeal.
Potato flour
Kartoffelmel (D), Potatismjöl (S), Potetmel (N), Perunajauhe (F)
Some recipes call for potato flour to thickena sauce or a dish. You can buy it in specialityfood stores, especially Scandinavian, Italian andPolish. Once potato starch is added, the dishshould not be allowed to boil (especially infruit-based sauces, as these will go cloudy afterboiling). You can substitute with cornflour/cornstarch, but if you need a less cloudy result,arrowroot is the best thing to use.
Rye flakes
Rugflager (D), Rågflingor (S), Rugflak (N), Ruishiutale (F)
I love using rye flakes in granola, flapjacks andporridge (mixed with normal oats) for their nuttyflavour and a good bite. Available in health-foodstores, they take longer to cook and are quitechewy. If you are using oats in a recipe, considermixing 80% oats and 20% rye.
Rye flour
Rugmel (D, N), Rågmjöl (S), Ruisjauho (F)
You can’t work your way through Scandinavianfood without encountering rye flour. Wholegrainrye is common in supermarkets – it’s very strongand hearty, and is great for baking dark ryebreads. Wheat flour cannot just be replaced withwholegrain rye, though – it has less gluten thanwheat, and it does not stretch the same way. Youcan experiment with replacing 10% of the whiteflour with rye, then increase the amount a littlemore the next time.
Rye flour mix
Rugsigtemel (D), Rågsikt (S), Siktet rugmel (N), Ruisjauho Mix (F)
In Sweden and Denmark, rye flour mixes are verycommon. They’re usually 60% white wheat flourand 40% light rye (type 997), sifted together.Make this at home by mixing the same quantities.
Rye kernels
Rugkerner (D), Rågkärnor (S), Rugkjerner (N), Ruisjyvä (F)
There are two kinds on the market – thewhole rye kernel and the kibbled or cut one.You need the whole one if boiling to include insalads or other dishes, while the kibbled varietyis essential when making good rye bread, wherethe whole one would be too hard to use. If youcan only get the whole variety, you can chop therye kernels in a food processor with a few quickpulses (not too much – you only just wantto cut them in half).
OTHER
Buttermilk
Kærnemælk (D), Kärnmjölk (S), Kjernemelk (N), Piimä (F)
In Danish cuisine, buttermilk often makesan appearance – especially in the summer dish‘koldskål’ (see page 152). I like using buttermilk inbatters for pancakes and in cakes – it has sournotes and is very fresh tasting for summer.
Marzipan
Marcipan (D), Marsipan (S, N), Marsipaani (F)
We use a lot of marzipan in baking but never thecheap kind which has a low almond content – gofor 50% almond content as a minimum, or makeyour own (unless you’re using it to cover a cake)
